Verified answer

Tapping the ignition coil will not do anything. It is only a series of electrical windings (in other words a transformer) with no mechanical parts that can stick and be freed by tapping.

Have you checked connections to the coil - i.e. is the HT wire seating nicely in the coil and does it make good electrical contact - by tapping you may be disturbing this or some other electrical connection which is not making a good connection or alternatively covered with verdigris.

You say that you changed points - it may be a stupid question to ask, but is the point gap correct. If this is not correct then you would be getting the problems that you described.

I do not believe your two problems are connected. The issue with respect to blowing fuses and not charging is not (I believe) related to the problem of performance.

Here I would look for an electrical short, faulty regulator, faulty generator. You do not mention if the generator warning light is burning or not. If not on, check to see if it is not blown.

What was the reason for changing the generator - was it because the battery was not being charged. If that was the case are you sure that the generator was in actual fact faulty.

You state that you have a Haynes Manual. If my memory serves me correctly the manual outlines some simple electrical tests for the generator and the regulator. They do however require that you have some sort of a multi-meter. This is where I would suggest you start fault finding your non-charging problem.

While some coils have a ballast resistor and others not - it should not impact on the running of the car - except the coil may not last as long and the coil will be a bit hotter.

The faults you describe cannot be attributed to the key starter switch. So I would definitely not fiddle here as you could create a new problem which previously did not exist.

Looking at the age of the car, I would first start at the tail lights. Take off the lens and remove the bulbs and inspect the base of the bulb - it should be shiny and brassy or chrome. If it is brass and the brass is blackish, take some fine sandpaper and sand the black off so it is brassy again. Also the bottom of the bulb is lead and that should be shiny silver. Very lightly(one or two swipes)with fine sandpaper should clean that up. Then look into the hole the bulb goes into. The sides should be metal(not rust colored or greenish) The rust, black or green does not conduct electricity and would cause the fuse to blow because of the increased resistance. Roll the fine sandpaper around a pencil and insert it into the hole should aid in cleaning out the socket of grunge. Also, if your pencil has an eraser on the end, you could use the eraser to clean the tang at the bottom that touches the end of the bulb. When all that is done, insert the bulb and turn the key on so that the ignition lights show up on the speedometer (that is when you have a new backup light fuse in the fusebox), put it into reverse and go and see if the light you just cleaned is working. If it is, then you can screw the lens cover back on. Otherwise you may have to wiggle the bulb in the socket so that it does work. Do the same check for the other tail light. Or, if you are near to an autoparts store, take one bulb with you and go buy 2 new ones. But you still have to clean out the sockets. I think it is a 10 amp fuse(white)You can still get the ceramic ones at an autoparts store for VW As for it being the cause for the car dying, that is unusual. Somehow, somewhere, someone messed up with the wiring. While in most cases it gets its power off the coil lead (and there is a seperate fuse at the base of the doghouse, I would check that fuse too to be sure it has not oxidized to black instead of nice brass color. Easiest just to replace it, otherwise if you can't get to a store, the pencil eraser comes in handy here too to clean the fuse and its connecting ends.

so you must have had the battery charging problem before all this not starting happened. have you had the battery tested? if it is not the battery than it is the voltage regulator. you need a strong battery to power the coil. my bus runs bad if I turn the stereo up. old vw's don't have a powerful electrical system. the fuse blowing and the poor running coupled with the battery not charging is telling me that you may have a hot wire touching the body somewhere. I suspect that one of the wires to the voltage regulator (under the back seat) is loose, and I am willing to bet that its a big red one with a white stripe on it. at least now you have a spare coil and a spare generator. next time dont change the generator just put new brushes in it it's like a five minute job compaired to the 2-3 hours it takes to replace the gen.

Battery problem is either bad regulator or dirty commutator/ brushes in that generator. If you have the idiots guide this is covered in there. The other problem could be a bad condenser.by a new one from someplace different. I have seen these bad right off the shelf. Check that point gap again.A vacuum leak could be an issue here.Check the timing. time it static not with strobe type light.If you need further help email me. Again all this is in the idiots guide by john muir

your problem is on you point, you said you replaced them but did you set them correctly. when you installed a new battery did you buy and internaly regulate or is your regulator under the seat if so remove the regulator and jum the green wire your charging light will then go out and your battery with charge

See a lot of advise from "just wrong" to just maybe???

Few people know that the gen light is the fields volt supply. So if the gen light is burnt out the gen will not produce.

You may have bought the wrong coil. It must be an internal resistered coil.

Would also suspect the key switch. Do you have a pound of keys and trinkets on the key ring---VW's hate that.

Poor electrical connection.

Point gap

Timing.

might be a problem with the battery. try a different generator

its your points and condenser, then check your timing.