Why does my car lose boost?
I drive a 1997 mitsubishi eclipse spyder. When I bought the car about a month ago the boost was great, good on take off okay at higher speeds but now, it doesnt work so well. On line take off is okay if I dont give it alot of gas but if I do, the boost shoots straight up and the car takes off with more motor then the quick acceleration from the turbo. What im trying to say is when I give it too much gas the turbo sucks! Possible problems?
Answers & Comments
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ALL turbo engines require FULL SYNTHETIC OIL and NO valvoline or CHEAPER MADE wax based MINERAL oil! Use MOBI LONE 0W-30 oil or other EUROPEAN SPEC OIL! (EUROPEANS have had TURBO diesel cars for DECADES< and REG oil does not exist in GERMANY). Get a FULL MOTOR FLUSH with AMSOIL crankcase cleaner to remove ALL TRACES of older oil AND varnish and built in COKE! the engine temp of a turbo can exceed 1000 degrees FAHRENHEIT (this is a GERMAN word too) VALVOLINE CANNOT HANDLE THIS! Try to find TOTAL ENERGY OIL< or AMSOIL ASIAN, or PENNZOIL ULTRA EURO! I have OWNED and repaired MANY turbo cars, and NONE of them can stand CHEAP OIL! the turbo oil FEED and RETURN lines will clog up with BAKED IN COKE and diamond hard deposits! VALVOLINE is from the "ASHLAND" company and has very high "ASH" contents that turn BACK into HARD WAX and COKE from heat! GET A FULL MOTOR FLUSH to remove as much HARDENED COKE and SLUDGE as you can! have your THROTTLE BODY and IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE cleaned up for $20 at ANY oil change center, and check engine for BLOWN air intake tubing or bad clamps and turbo seals! Run GUMOUT spray through your PCV valve and locate a can of AMSOIL POWER FOAM! run it ALSO through the PCV VALVE< the THROTTLE BODY and also through the IACV! This will help remove COKED and BAKED IN sludge on PISTON TOPS< rings, and valve heads as well! BAD OIL will kill ALL newer engines in a BIG HURRY< and so many OIL CHANGE CENTERS are DOOMED to use GENERIC OILS that can ruin most HIGH OUTPUT ENGINES! READ your manual about the PROPER OIL SPEC NUMBERS< which are TOTALLY different from VISCOSITY RATINGS!!!!!! totally!!
Not continually the alternator. It might be a construct up of acid on the battery cables. Is there white stuff on your battery cables? If there's simply carefully pour coke on it and it will wash away. Rinse well with water. Cost your battery and your completed. This expenditures .50 cents alternatively of $500 for a new alternator. Nevertheless, when you just discontinue through your local auto ingredients store they will determine all of it without spending a dime. Possibly just acid build (considering the fact that of the open electrical cost, no longer certainly battery acid) maybe just a new battery, and perhaps it's an alternator. Let's all hope.
I don't know what you mean by "it takes off with more motor". Is it a manual transmission, and could the clutch be slipping?
WTF is with your capital letters Robert M, stop shouting ?
Check your boost hoses - the higher the boost the worse the air leak the slower you go. Check your fuel pressure, check your clutch.