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Hi Fallen, have you tried using Plastic-steel glue/Dextone? this glue has two tubes in one package, the black tube and white tube. the black contains the glue, and the white contains hardener. you have to mix them up with 1:1 before use. this glue sticks anywhere, including metal, it dries within 5 seconds, and when it is heated, it becomes stronger and stiffer like stone. it never melts down. I ever use it as the replacement of spark plug insulator ceramic on motorcycle and it works great!. try finding it in your local store.

or you can try soldering it? if you want to stick it of wide surface metal, then you have to use some big soldering iron (200 watts). brush or sandpaper the surface first to remove any coating, and then heat up using hot soldering iron. drop some tin on it and when the tin sticks, put the wire on. hold the wire for 5 seconds with screwdriver. this gives you better contact and lasts longer. good luck!

With each switches closed there's a threat that the lesser voltage battery will probably be run backwards, and if that's the case you'll have got to realize the inner resistance. However, the values are cautiously selected. Consider the left circuit: 20V via 2 10 ohm resistors, so that is one amp. One amp via a 10 ohm resistance manner ten volts, oho! That's the voltage of the LH battery, that is in a position to ship present via the shared resistor. But, it has no extra voltage to take action, so it sends no present, simply sits there. Put an additional approach, the junction factor on the most sensible within the core is at +10V as a result of the RH battery, and so the LH battery sees no possibility.

Depending on the metals involved, you might consider soldering as a solution. Nothing else.